Thursday, January 28, 2010

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Still winter

It´s mid spring and I have put more hours on my little electric heater this past few weeks than all winter! No further words.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

From the south of Brasil

From the south of Brasil

Yes, Brasil with S. The way Gouveia does.

So, this summer has been again another one! Uohh this is quite an affirmation hah! And is the one that says best the felling I have after all these weeks of great surfing. Quite a lot more big days than last summer, 09 summer is ending with a 9.97 score. Yes, 9.97. Just to make everyone scratch their heads thinking about the .03 that is missing! Crazy judges!! Let that for the pros.

Anyways… this summer gets to its end. Close to 100 surf sessions and with still 20 days left I feel good and sad at once. Friends away from the ocean, with their boards in the room but hours from a wave. After every one of the waves I surf there is a moment of deep sadness and a bunch of weird feelings for those friends. Weird feelings. I know they have other things to do, and that they will be back to the ocean as soon as possible. But is hard to understand why your surf buddy is not there paddling back to the outside with you or getting up right in front of you with that smooth steely.

Hard to keep up with the understanding? I hope not… cuz.. it´s about them only. The waves. Ocean, surf, longboard, shortboard, fun, fish, evolution, star, store, new, old, caveman like, or whatever you wish to name and bring to the water. If one is able to stand on an make some turns, the game is on. You vs Nature. You with your board and Nature with her sublime essence; water, movement, understanding trough respect. You either learn or learn a lesson.

Yeah dear surfers friends, one more summer, nice waves and always a few wipeouts that keep coming to mind here and there.

Surf this week was GOOD, quality waves, nice size, a few 3-4 foot days. Nice, nice. Southern Brasil, strong NE or S winds during the days, but plenty of good spots, sometimes very close by. Like a beach facing E right around one facing S. Most of them sand bottom and some rock bottoms but not very surfed and some unknown since most people just go to the nearest one.

Being south and having a bit of cold weather, summer goes playing with surfers´s smiles. Cold water gets a little colder and the weather slowly changes from high 80´s to 50´s. Even getting down to low 40´s but only a hand full of days of June and July.

Easy to find places to live that are in a walking distance to a nice beach. The problem to solve is just how far from downtown one wishes to live. Calculating the type of wave that fits your taste best with the type of crowd received one can easily down pin a place to stay. North with more city life, East with plenty of choices and South with a more rural feeling, the island is full of mind blowing views.

Anyways…. Again and for last… nice week of surf, beginning of a new month, new moon, sun always there thankfully and not for long but for a few more weeks strongly keeping the nice, steady and cool 80´s.

Aloha